A lot going down in Egypt’s Land – let my people go!
Reminds me of that great spiritual I weaned myself on matters freedom from Satchmo (Louis Armstrong) in my youth. He inspired me to take up the trumpet and I have been pretty much blowing it ever since….
However, with all that is going on in Tahrir Square, it reminded me of a beautiful Egyptian soul I had the great honour to meet and spend time with in Luxor some years ago and it is he that I write about today….
It is to be correct, more about the gift he gave me and the gift I returned him.
Guru Sam, a truly magnificent being
It illustrated for me the importance of giving.
How a simple action of loving kindness can change a whole life, a family, a dynasty as well as the sometime bloated, and over consumptive life of a photographer.
I was in Egypt for a week’s break from the heavy schedules of shoots back in the UK and across various continents. With a blessed fellow snapper, Irishman Jeremy, we decided to quit our respective London and Paris bolt holes and take time out in Egypt.
Arriving in Luxor we camped in the main hotel and ventured out to live amongst the locals. As photographers we both suffered from the same condition. We loathed being tourists and were more comfortable melting into the background. You get better photos that way.. ask Don McCullin or any other great photo-journalist… anyway….
This particular day we decided to eat as usual in the back street local restaurants that made up the spider’s web of streets in backtown Luxor. Alongside silver smiths, cobblers, seed traders and innumerable materials outfitters and dispensers, we would find and eat local fare.
Never once did we suffer any of the Cairo craps or upsets that marked most who stayed in 4 and 5 star hotels and were brought down by the salads cleaned in local water and bugs! This day we came to a little square, where all around a multitude of hawkers traders and inspiring local business brains wheeled, dealt and traded.
Amongst the throng was a gentleman behind a huge pot of steaming soup, freshly brewed and there for the take away. He was a picture. I fell in love with his huge smile he liberally gave out to all and sundry. A man after my own heart. Telling Jeremy I wanted his portrait I went over and slipped quietly down beside him. As quietly as a European face amongst a sea of Arab faces can….
Placing the camera in my lap I looked over to him and we beamed a silent welcome to each the other. I then asked him in English if it would be OK for me to take a picture of him with his soup pot. Bemused was not the half of it. He turned fully to me, gave me an intense look into my soul and spoke in better English than I was able to muster Arabic.
“Effendi, you may indeed take my picture by all means, as long as you share with me my soup.”
At that moment he raised his head slightly, emitted a laugh that coursed through me as a river in flood breaking the confines of the high Aswan and rushing down along the parched plains beyond.
His face opened, a smile of such warmth and kindness broke around his aged and cracked features and before I knew myself I had already gone into auto pilot with camera swept from my lap, the click of shutter embedded this image for posterity.
The moment was so smart, so sudden it passed as quickly as it arrived. Yet I had my image. He had a customer who became, in that instant, a friend for life and my gratitude flowed to him for this moment that would remain with me forever.
The soup was one of the best brews I have ever tasted on the circuit of life and having been boiled was purer than the foolish salad we inadvertently took the day before we left, at our hotel, which for the next week or so back home had me sitting on the throne eating my own words of caution about local starred hotel fare.
The image I was gifted was superb. It went to gain me many plaudits and work over the coming years. I was indeed grateful. So when some several years later I found myself back in Egypt with a group of us on a spiritual meditation and self discovery journey I vowed to take a beautiful large-sized print back to the square to seek out my soup seller and return the gift.
We arrived at the square, less busy than I remembered those years back. I sought him out, showing the photo around, as he was nowhere to be seen. Eventually one kind soul pointed me in the direction of a young man. I went over, showed the image of my soup seller and asked if he knew this man. “He is my father”, the young trader replied. “Please come with me and we can meet him.”
I was overjoyed and together we were guided, all 8 of us pilgrims, by his son, through the white single storey housed streets that comprised this particular quartier of Luxor. It was no more than seven or eight minutes later that we arrived at a long white abode we quickly understood to be the family home.
Our presence there had been heralded by a fleet-of-foot courier who had rushed back to forewarn the extended family of an onrush of foreigners shortly arriving. So that when we arrived at the house outside along the long white wall was an image of the complete extended family, grandparents, cousins, relations young and old all in black, all welcoming these strangers from another land. It was moving to say the least, but if I thought this was moving, I had experienced nothing of what awaited me.
We were courteously ushered into the cool anti-room that comprised a large open living space with, in one corner, a concrete rectangular plinth housing what looked like a pile of blankets. As my eyes accustomed to the light level I saw under these there lay an elderly man.
“Please, my father,” the young man pointed to a figure in the corner that admittedly I would have been hard pressed to recognise as the same man as featured in my picture. His complexion sallow, sunken features where before the rosy smile had been, his eyes tired and exhausted from the deprivations of life and the endless giving he extended to all. His hour was near, that was apparent.
“He is ill and has stomach ailment,” his son explained as he gently took the photo from my astonished hands. Cancer was definitely the cause, I felt. Quietly he moved across the room to the side of his father. A man who I recognised, through the extended family’s presence, to be the patriarch of the family. His son gently lifted the sick man up into a semi sitting position, I could see was somewhat painful. The old man obliged as elders do when they recognise their incapacity to self-help. Resigned in loving arms, he adjusted himself as best he could to comfort.
My photo was placed before him and his eyes scanned with extraordinary alacrity and sparkled again with that old flame, giving out almost their entire fruitage, yet were brighter than Orion that hung in the diamond studded night skies above the ancient pyramids at Giza. I felt the dam burst within me, and made no attempt to staunch the flood, as the absence of dry eyes around my fellow travellers was witness.
“Father, this is the man who took this picture of you returned and wants you to have this.” The old man made what must have been huge exertion and tremendous effort, as he turned towards us and poignantly made attempt to view its messenger.
His eyesight would never have made out my features clearly enough to recognise me, yet he opened his mouth looked at his son and replied.
“Ah, yes the young man who shared soup with me.”
This was the final straw. Emotionally I burst, moved inestimably by a memory of an incident all but transitory, now indelibly etched on my mental notebook for all time. Gently he was laid down and continued to hold in his frail fingers the image of a great man, the joy of a patriarch, the generosity of a trader, a soul who along the well-travelled dusty road of life, extended the gift of sharing to an oft forgetful photographer of countless faces and unnamed figures in life’s landscape.
I knew in that moment this photo would become a memorial to a figure, who for many had been the staunch, trusted, servant master of a household. A leader of many through years of experience. A true patriarch, father, son, brother and uncle to many. This photo would never have been acquired on their meagre incomes. This gift, that for me was merely an extension of so much I had, became a golden memory that would end up framed, pride of place, treasured and hung in honour of this great soul soon to depart some few days later.
In my heart I took away a lesson still with me as I write.
Give freely, give generously with all you have. Never imagine that even the gift of a kind word cannot transform into a diamond.The sharing of a moment together is in its simplicity, the sharing of eternity and sacred stillness. Whenever possible return the favour of a treasured encounter between two parts of a whole, with gratitude and loving kindness.
Guru Sam, as I affectionately call him, gave me experience of Love in action. I for my part was able to give an extended family and generations, a memory portrait that reflects this denison of light in a moment of laughter, joy and selflessness infecting all who view his divine features.
May we all gift each other more and more from the treasure chest of our being so we all are left with something that touches the soul and liberates us into our true being within this one large global family.
Insha’Allah
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